THURSDAY, JULY 30

THURSDAY, JULY 30:

       Well, our 3^rd Big Sur day! Unexpected, but fabulous!

       We'd decided last night that if it weren't completely fogged in, we'd take the Point Sur Lighthouse tour this morning. They only offer it a few times a week, and this would be our last opportunity. We're so glad we did! What a delighful tour! An unhurried 3 hours long!

 

 

       Our 2 volunteer guides led our small group on a leisurely walk up a 1/2 mile incline to the lighthouse, giving us so much fascinating history along the way. This lightstation was built in 1889. It was one of several built along the California Central Coast during that era. A freighter carried all of the building materials for all of the lighthouses in almost a kit form, all the way from the east coast, around Cape Horn, up to Monterey Bay, and from there by wagon to this remote outpost. 

 

                                                                 

             

 

 

 

 

 

 

But before they could even start constructing the lighthouse itself, they had to blast away and level the top of the huge rock on which it was going to be situated. One consideration was keeping the lighthouse below the fog level.

 

                                                                     

 

 

                                                                         

 

 

 

      The first lighthouse keeper assigned here was from the east, was hired for $800/year, and lasted only one year. But the families which succeeded him had a much longer record of longevity, all the way until 1974, when the lightstation became fully automated. As we walked back down the hill after being able to visit each of the buildings on top (original lighthouse keeper's family home, the “triplex” - for assistant lighthouse keepers & their families, the water storage tower, the tool and blacksmith shop, 1 or 2 others),

 

                                                                 

 

 

 

 

we felt that we got a real feel for what life on a remote lightstation must have been like. We were so impressed with the quality of the volunteer docents. In fact, this entire lighthouse is pretty much operated by volunteers, even though it's part of the California State Park system. Even the restoration work is done nearly entirely by volunteers – engineers, craftsmen, etc. What a gift of their talents – to ensure that this piece of history will be able to be experienced and enjoyed for us and future generations. 

 

 

 

 

      

          We came for the tour expecting chilly winds, but were pleasantly surrpised by warm temperature and relatively clear skies, which was really nice so that we could enjoy seeing the sea lions below, as well as some really beautiful views.

                                                     

                                                                                 

 

One of our guides shared with us that in winter, the various species of whales migrate right by here – straight underneath the ledge where we were standing. Catch the right day, and you can see their entire bodies floating on top of the water. Wonder if the families who lived here without electricity were wow'd by sights like that!

 

 

 

 

       The most unexpected gift of the day: just as we were driving out of the long driveway back to Hwy 1, the remaining overcast cloudiness was disappearing literally before our eyes! First truly blue skies we'd witnessed in Big Sur! So, without hesitation, we decided to drive down to Nepenthe again and experience it as it was meant to be! It was expectedly crowded, but after a short wait, we scored a prime table on the patio. Even though we thoroughly enjoyed our food (their famous Ambrosiaburger for me, a tuna salad sandwich for Bill which he pronounced the best he'd ever had), this time it really was about the scenery. Simply sublime. And quintessentially perfect California weather. What a purely pleasurable couple of hours spent here! (We celebrated with a shared slice of key lime pie.)

                                                                   

 

 

As we were walking down the hill to the parking lot and stopped to admire some redwoods with artfully carved fountains placed under them, we were delightfully entertained by 3 really active red-crowned birds. Don't know what their species is, but sure striking and fun to watch! 

 

                                                            

 

 

 

       With the afternoon being so perfectly delightful, we decided to take advantage of our time down here at Big Sur by going to another nearby State park and hike a trail. We'd asked one of our morning docents for recommendations – even before the weather turned so gorgeous. So made the short drive to Andrew Molera State Park (and beach). (Don't know the story of who this was named after.) After a walk through the tenting-only campground, we found the trail that was recommended to us – the Headlands Trail. Aptly named, it led us almost down to the beach before veering off gaining elevation up a relatively easy series of steps and a gradual slope.

 

                                                                    

 

Once again, we were rewarded with fabulous views. This time, the viewes included some surfers whom we watched for quite a while – they were very entertaining.

 

                                                         

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

      

      Tired when we arrived home around 7:00, but the kind of exhilarating tiredness after a full, splendid day, filled with unexpected naturally extravagant gifts from Above.