WEDNESDAY
& THURSDAY, JULY 15 & 16:
Two
days in beautiful Santa Barbara. On Wednesday, we got into town
around 11:30, parked, and got the bikes out of the back of the truck
to ride up to the Mission. An invigorating ride up State Street and
past its “Miracle Mile” of shops, boutiques, and eateries, then
onto some side streets which were pretty steep uphill. The overcast
skies cleared almost precisely as we rode up to the mission entrance!
This
is the 3rd
time we've visited this “Queen of the Missions.” Took the
self-guided tour again and renewed our history lesson in how Spain
established these 21 missions for both spiritual and political
reasons: spiritual, to convert the indigenous people; political, to
secure and protect their foothold in Alta California. We just
leisurely enjoyed everything, especially the gardens and architecture.
Then
biked back into downtown – downhill – whee! Biked over to
Stearns Wharf, and realized that at 3:00 we were hungry, despite our
substantial breakfast. Must have been that biking! So got some fish
'n' chips to go (calamari 'n' chips for me), and took them over to a
nice semi-shaded picnic area overlooking the bay. Lots of pleasure
boats out today.
Then
biked back over on State Street to the County Courthouse, where we
intended to go up to the rooftop for the renowned 360 degree views.
But there was a sign saying that the elevator wasn't working due to
rennovations. It was 4:30, and no one was at the window, so we'll
find out the scoop on that tomorrow, when we'll take the afternoon
tour of the building. In the meantime, we made use of the late
afternoon light to meander around the grounds and take photos of this
iconic Santa Barbara landmark.
Decided
that we'd go on home now, and save some $$ by eating at home tonight.
It
was a lovely
drive home . . . we could really appreciate the beautiful Santa Ynez
Mountain scenery on the way to Cahuma Lake when we weren't worried
about the truck pulling the RV. Very
Mediterranean . . it's how I envision parts of Italy, like Tuscany.
On
Thursday, picked up in town where we left off, although we didn't
arrive until close to 1:00 because an RV mechanic came out to the
campground at 9:00 to look at our rig and try to fix the jack that
wasn't working. He diagnosed the problem – normal wear and tear,
but the stress broke the bolt off – and put in a new one. So glad
to have that fixed. While he was working for the nearly 2 hours, we
both made ourselves comfortable outside and read. It was an
absolutely beautiful morning, as
as
the multitude of chirping birds attested.
Once again rode our bikes over to the Courthouse in time for the 2:00 tour. We'd taken the tour once before, and enjoyed it so much we decided to do it again – especially since it's FREE! The docents do a fantastic job of filling visitors in on the history of this magnificent building, its architectural elements and design, its artwork, etc. It was completed in 1929 after the original had been heavily damaged in the 1925 earthquake The timing coincided with a renewed interest amongst Californians in their Spanish heritage. Thus, the city fathers decided on a Spanish castle motif. Our guide pointed out the many Spanish-Moorish elements in the design, as well as English Christian ones. How fortuitious for future generations that this building was planned, designed, built, and completed when it was . . . had it been 1 or 2 years later, when the depression was in full swing, it may never have happened – too extravagant for the times, might have well been the protests . . . plus, where would the money have come from? But, thankfully, we do have it, and not only this wonderful building, but it set the tone – and actually, the coded architectural requirements - for all future Santa Barbara downtown buildings.
The roof is indeed closed for another few weeks because of some minor renovations they're making. A disappointment, but we've been up there twice before. So t his time we just thoroughly enjoyed the grounds and surroundings without the rooftop experience. It's just so incredibly pictueresque around every turn and from every angle.
Prison in background; women's cells were the 7 long rectangular windows below the roofline: Although they designed the exterior to be attractive and blend in with the rest of the building, the interior of the jail section wasn't as nice! (below):
Then
we hopped on our bikes and pedaled down a few blocks to El Presidio –
the reconstructed military fortress built by the Spanish in the late
18th
century along the coast of Alta California (it was one of four).
These
presidios worked in tandem with the missions to establish and protect
Spain's presence, influence, and culture here in Alta
California, and to promote loyalty to its crown among the inhabitants here.
Left
our bikes locked up and walked over a couple of blocks to a neat,
funky neighborhood where our tour guide had directed us to see the
building which housed an artists' colony back in the 1920's, from
which most of the artisans who worked on the new courthouse were
recruited.
Then
walked back to State Street and the Santa Barbara Museum of Art, a
world-class art museum. The exhibit we were most interested in was
one of impressionist works – they had on permanent loan many
paintings from the renowned Armand Hammer collection, includng a
couple of each of Degas, Monet, and singletons by Chagall, Matisse,
Van Gogh, Cezanne, Renoir, & others. It's FREE on Thursday
evenings!
Then
a short stroll to a little arcade/plaza area we'd spotted earlier in
the day and which sheltered 2 or 3 restaurants which we thought might
be good candidates for dinner. Selected one, which turned out to be
a winner! Bill ordered lamb chops, and I got a pork tenderloin dish
with a fig sauce. Both were served with garlic mashed potatoes and a
squash & other veggie ratatouille. Both were delicious! Enjoyed
dining outside in a quiet, charming, Mediterranean atmosphere.
And old world charm: a phone booth! (below): though locked up & apparently not working)
And
biked on back to the truck. What a bike-friendly city. The main
streets have dedicated bike lanes. And even in those streets that
don't, vehicular traffic seems to be very aware and tolerant and
respectful of bicyclists. We always felt totally safe and secure
riding on the streets. Was chilly as we rode back. Quintessential
perfect Southern Calif weather – warm, even hot, sunny days, cool
evenings and mornings. We could take this weather 350 days a year
(we'll keep out a week each of brutal heat and cold just to make us
appreciate the other days!)
The
third Freebie treat of the day – our next door neighbor here, who
mistakenly must think that God created him to share his musical
talent (NOT) with fellow campers near & far every evening (by
either singing along with his CD collection, or by hosting a Karaoke
evening, which of course attracted pre-teens) had checked out! Yea!
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