FRIDAY, JULY 31

FRIDAY, JULY 31:

        Our last day here on the Monterey Peninsula. We couldn't stray far away from Monterey itself because we were awaiting a call from the garage saying that the truck was ready. So we took advantage of the Monterey Historical Tour. Another totally engaging walking tour of this historic town.

 

                                                                1st brick house in Monterey:            

 

 
                                    Very typical Mexican-era style building, with balcony.  This was first used as a soldiers' barracks.  Ironically, the Mexicans built it to house the first American soldiers, in 1846:
 

 
                                                                 

 
 

 
Monterey's 1st theatre.  Some soldiers here evidently became very bored and started entertaining one another witch skits, simple plays, etc.  They thought they were pretty good and began charging admission.  Voila - the first theatre! 
 

 
    Very few folks who departed Monterey for the gold rush ever returned.  But those few who did, and who actually came back with some gold, cached it here, in Casa del Oro (House of Gold):

 

                                                                         

      One of the themes of our young guide's talk was that the history of Monterey mirrors the history of California: native peoples for hundreds of years living in luxury, with virtually every food source available to them. They're one of very few people groups who don't have a starvation myth, or even a word for starvation. Then the period of Spanish conquest, and the mission era. Next, after Mexican independence from Spain, the period of Mexican rule and secularization of the mission system; this was also the height of the hide-and-tallow trade. Then the transfer to U.S. control in 1846, followed by the gold rush in 1848 and subsequent statehood.

      He shared rich and interesting details about each of these time frames, and continually showed how so many things are inter-connected in history and culture. For example, during the period of Mexican rule, they imposed a tariff on incoming freight from New England of nearly 100%! And we thought we had high taxes! Why would anyone in his right mind sail for 6 or 7 months for no profit?? Well, they would be paid in cowhides from the ranches which were prevalent here (untiil secularization, the missions also had tens of thousands of head of cattle). There was little currency here, and cowhides were commonly accepted as barter. It was so popular as a form of payment, in fact, that cattle hides began to be known as California banknotes. So a sailing merchant would load up his ship in cowhides and sail back to New England, where he could sell his hides for 10 times what he had bartered. Why were they so in demand in the East? The hides would be tanned into leather. And the leather would be used for shoes, belts, & other clothing. But most of all – it would be used for machinery belts, to supply the new factories sprouting up all over New England. So the Industrial Revolution in one part of the country helped the infant economy a continent away. And vice-versa. Fascinating! Oh, the tallow (the fat of the steer) was also shipped back east and used to make candles and soap.

      Our guide noted that Monterey has had 3 rebirths after seeming death: the first was in 1848, when the town nearly emptied as virtually every able-bodied man headed east to the gold fields. As Monterey declined, San Francisco prospered, as at least 2 large navigable rivers headed inland to gold country from there. The second time was in the 1930's, when the sardine industry collapsed as a result of over-fishing. Cannery Row was left rusting. It wasn't until the 1970's or 80's that people got the idea to re-build and market Monterey as a tourist destination. It's certainly been successful! Our sardonic guide wondered how long this incarnation would last, and if there would be another Phoenix rising from the tourist trade ashes in the future.

       One last interesting, ironic tidbit: the original California constitution, which was drafted here in Monterey, was written in both Spanish and English. So nothing new under the sun.

      And, as always in this area, beautiful, tranquil Spanish/Mediterranean style courtyards and gardens.

 

                                                                    

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

      Got a sandwich and cold drink at the Wharf fresh market, and that's when Bill got the call that the truck was ready. So we drove over there. Bill had talked to them several times, and had driven over to talk to them in person this morning. He was very impressed with their knowledge and integrity. We thank the Lord for using Mike to lead us to these fine folks. Nevertheless, the bill still stung. Ouch.

     I'd intended to drive one of the vehicles home. But they were both so big and wide, I was afraid that I just wouldn't be able to maneuver in the narrow city streets. Plus, I realized that I didn't have my driver's license with me. So we asked if we could just leave Mike's truck there and come back later. No problem.

      By now, it was getting pretty overcast, and we were tired. So we didn't do our bike ride of the scenic road in Carmel by the Sea which we'd intended. Will save that for another visit.

      Grilled a nice pork tenderloin for dinner, wth rice & salad. Ate inside. Bill saw Stacy, Mike's wife, and told her about their truck. She was so naturally gracious – said no problem at all – she was going into town tomorrow anyway to shop, and would have one of their boys drive her and get the truck. Cheers to these wonderful people! We will truly miss them.